Simple Solutions | Quick Ship Metals News-Blog

Stain-less Steel is Not Care-less, but almost

May 122011

A stainless steel backsplash, range hood and stainless steel appliances brighten a kitchen considerably, so it's no mystery why so many people are ripping out and replacing their aging kitchen decor. The most challenging task is picking the right pattern from the many choices offered.

This is not a scientific survey, but based on customer inquiries and purchases over the last year, it appears that people are accepting they will be in their current homes until the market turns around. The numbers of requests for kitchen renovation products seems to indicate they’ve taken the “bloom where you’re planted” approach and are remodeling the rooms that made them want to move in the first place.

Since the kitchen is the one room that breeds discontent the fastest, updating to a modern stainless steel look is the dominate subject on “Ask Frank” questions. The most common questions are related to selecting the right thickness, installation issues and occasionally care related inquiries? You’ll find numerous articles about stainless steel on this blog, covering all of the aforementioned subjects, but care is a subject that should be addressed because as amazing as this metal is, the reality is that it is stain-less steel, not stain-proof. This highly durable alloy is almost bullet proof when it comes to normal use and abuse, but it is possible to abuse anything. Fortunately, if you do something regrettable the recovery process isn’t that difficult with this resilient metal.

The term Stainless Steel describes an alloy, or blend of materials, that contain a minimum of 10.5% of chromium. Chromium is a chemical element that makes steel lustrous and hard, enabling a high polish, resistance to corrosion and discoloration. Bumpers on vintage vehicles were electroplated with chromium, which gave them the bright mirror-like finish that car enthusiasts admire so much. Travel almost any roadway today and you’ll soon realize that a Harley Davidson be a poor shadow of itself without the heavy applications of chrome?

The disadvantage of chrome plating is that it is only a surface application and stainless steel is an alloy combined at great temperatures so the chromium is blended throughout the entire thickness of stainless steel. Once the metal is rolled to its different thicknesses and the surface is treated with a variety of patterns, the elements complete the task naturally.

The remarkable aspect of this amazing metal occurs when chromium comes into contact with the air we breathe. When exposed to oxygen, chromium becomes passivated and forms a thin protective oxide layer on its surface. Although this layer is only a few atoms thick it is very dense, preventing oxygen from penetrating the underlying molecules. In comparison, when oxygen comes into contact with common carbon steel, it migrates down into the underlying material causing rust to form. And the most amazing thing is this protective layer heals itself when scratched or damaged.

The beauty, resilience, durability and simplicity of stainless steel is a powerful combination.

Normal care for stainless steel can be handled in a number of ways, depending on your personal preference. Stainless steel sinks need to be dried down with a soft towel if you want to keep the water stains to a minimum and the shine to a maximum, but for most homes you’ll only need to treat the backsplashes and major appliances once a week. Naturally that will vary depending with the number of little fingerprints you have in your home and what your personal expectations are in this regard. While this metal requires little care, some routine attention will protect and prolong its beauty indefinitely. The critical factor is to use non-abrasive cleaners and there are some more natural ways to maintain these shiny surfaces. In my younger years, I worked in a restaurant and cleaning up before closing was one of night shift jobs. All surfaces were treated with a soft cleaning cloth dampened with light oil such as mineral oil or olive oil and then any excess was removed with a dry towel. With an all stainless steel kitchen it was quite a lot of metal to tend but the entire kitchen really sparkled when we were through.

For watermarks in stainless steel sinks and surrounding backsplashes, try sponging on a solution of two teaspoons of baking soda dissolved in a cup of warm water. Use the damp sponge to apply the solution in a circular motion, then rinse and dry the treated surfaces with a soft dry cloth to remove any watermarks and fingerprints.
Vinegar is another natural option that does a great job of removing water spots. Just dilute the vinegar about 50/50 with distilled water to eliminate mineral content. Spray the surfaces evenly and wipe clean with a soft cloth. Any residual vinegar odor evaporates quickly.

Brushed stainless steel has a distinctive pattern. When polishing a complicated pattern such as this you must rub with the grain in very short strokes.

Sometimes accidents happen, like sitting a very hot skillet on a stainless steel surface. Exposure to extreme heat will discolor stainless steel, but all is not lost. Stainless steel polish will remove this discoloration but the downside for many polishes is their application requires heavy doses of elbow grease. Also, when using a polish that will remove discoloration or scratches in the surface of any metal, you must pay attention to the pattern of application. Make sure you apply the polish with the grain on stainless steel that has a brushed pattern or you could be altering the original pattern or creating additional patterns that remain after the original problem is solved. For stainless steel appliances, check to make sure the manufacturer recommends using polish on their product’s surface. Since there are numerous brands of stainless steel polish, instructions may vary so, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for the brand you choose and remove all residues with a soft, clean towel.

Char-Brite is easy to apply and the shine lasts for a long time.

A polish that does NOT require any rubbing is Char-Brite. Simply apply Char-Brite sparingly and remove any excess with a clean cloth for a brilliant shine. Char-Bright removes dirt and grime, greasy film, water marks, it even covers scratches. Once applied, it immediately forms a protective coating on any surface, repels water, prevents penetration of harmful liquids, and retains its gloss indefinitely. It also preserves the surface against deterioration of all kinds! And it’s guaranteed not to contain acid, silicon, or any abrasive substance. It is also guaranteed not to powder or cake in crevices.

The beauty of stainless steel can be extended for years to come, with the regular care described here, and one of these several options should work well for you. However, if you have a personal favorite I’ve not mentioned I’d love to hear from you.

Decorative Stainless steel comes in a variety of patterns and for many the most challenging part of an upgrade is selecting just one from the many beautiful options. To simplify the process, a stainless steel sample pack is available to help you visualize how each would look in your own kitchen. QSM also offers replacement panels for dishwashers, and if your particular model doesn’t fall within the standard sizes, a custom cut is not a problem. For all your stainless steel or copper needs, contact the friendly customer service team at QuickShipMetals.com, or give them a toll-free call at 1-888-334-2177, and take the next step toward your dream kitchen project.

Stainless Steel Kitchens = Beauty, Simplicity, Durability!

Fun Projects, Simple Solutions

Apr 112011

Adrienne and Jay's kitchen is now as functional as it is beautiful with all new stainless steel surfaces.

Jay’s wife, Adrienne, is a devotee of the Cooking Channel and Jay is a devotee to his wife’s delicious meals. These two factors considered at length, updating their 10-year-old kitchen was a project whose time had come.

While a glass-top cook surface seemed like a great option at the time, over the years it has become particularly problematic, requiring an excessive amount of time to clean and remove streaking after use. Back then, new white appliances were the thing but today smart homeowners are discovering the beauty and simple care required by stainless steel appliances and backsplashes.

Jay also added some classy touches like a small stainless steel shelve under the cooking surface where utensils are stored for easy access.

Once they agreed their stove had to go, Jay got on the Internet and started shopping. Soon after he had installed the new stainless steel stove they realized the microwave, dishwasher, and trash compactor did not match. These appliances were too new to just replace so Jay gave them a face lift with stainless steel replacement panels, however their Kitchen Aide refrigerator proved to be more challenging.

Although this appliance was in great condition, Kitchen Aide no longer made stainless steel replacement panels for this particular model. He widened his search efforts and found an online metal’s company that offered to cut the stainless steel to size but their price quote was $600 and more of a concern they would not guarantee the metal would arrive without scratches or damages in shipping. Also, they would not guarantee him that the edges where they made the cuts would not be unmarred. Combined with the high price of the metal, and the potential that it would arrive unusable with a “sorry about that” attitude from the supplier forced Jay back to the search engines, and that’s when he found a perfect solution for all three concerns.

When Jay discovered Storm Copper and QuickShipMetals.com’s world class customer service department his problems and Internet search soon ended. After calling the toll-free number and explaining his dilemma Jay was provided with a quoted price less than half of the one he received and most important to him, he was assured that the metal was guaranteed to arrive without scratches or dings.

“I talked with a lady at Storm and she said shipping across the country was something they did every day. Even when I explained that we lived in LA, she assured me that my satisfaction was guaranteed. In a few days the order arrived between two sheets of plywood that were strapped together. I cut the strapping and unpacked it to find that it was in perfect condition. I installed it in the doors and the cuts were perfect. The pieces fit like a glove,” he said.

With plenty of room to work, and all stainless steel appliances, the only question now is what's for dinner?

“Now the project is finished and my wife is happy, so I’m happy. The staff at Storm Copper made it possible for us to complete out kitchen project for a very reasonable price and I couldn’t ask for a better ending,” he said.

Based on the photos he sent, their kitchen will be beautiful for many years to come, and one that would compare well with any on the Cooking Channel. Jay also added some classy touches like a small stainless steel shelve under the cooking surface where utensils are stored for easy access.

QuickShipMetals offers standard size brushed-horizontal stainless steel dishwasher door panels (19 1/8″ H x 23 1/2″ W) and standard lower panels (3 11/16″ H x 23 9/16″ W) that fit many models. If the standard size doesn’t work; no problem! Custom cuts are routine.

If you are considering a kitchen face lift that includes stainless steel or any style of copper sheeting or copper foil perhaps you should benefit from Jay’s lengthy Internet search, contact the fine folks that staff QSM’s customer service department. The prices are very competitive and customer satisfaction is second to none!

Toll-Free 1-888-334-2177

Dressing up Engine #92

Simple Solutions

Feb 112011

Our metal ends up in some interesting projects but few would rival the potential for excitement that comes with riding on the grill of a fire engine racing down the congested streets of the Bronx. When a fireman from a New York fire house called with an idea to dress up their Engine number 92, Quick Ship Metals was happy to take on the job of creating two large numbers to identify their engine.

At some time in every young boy’s life the dream of growing up to be a fireman is a treasured goal, and knowing the care that firemen take polishing and shining their engines, this job created a buzz in the QSM shop.

Metal workers in our production facility used a TRUMP machine to cut out the box style letters from aluminum diamond plate and then gave them a bright red powder coating that will stand out boldly as the Engine 92 lumbers down the street with lights flashing and siren blaring.

Although we won’t “grow up” to be firemen some day, it’s nice to know that we had a part in dressing up an engine for firemen that live that challenging life, and rise to meet the dangers that come with the ringing of the fire bell.

If you’ve got an idea for a project that involves metal, give our customer service staff a call on our toll-free line. 1-888-334-2177. We give every project the same top priority and attention to detail that even the most demanding consumer will appreciate.

Simple, Safe Patinas From Your Kitchen Cabinet

Fun Projects, Simple Solutions

Dec 292010

By Frank Ross

A piece of hammered copper with a muratic acid patina is contrasted with a sheet of decorative copper that has not been treated.

Patinas are a beautiful part of the copper experience, and while time is the most natural way to achieve a nice patina most people do not want to wait several years for a particular effect to slowly form. Also, a natural patina depends on the ambient chemicals present in the air the copper is exposed to, and that determines the patina coloration. The alternative to waiting and accepting luck-of-the-draw coloration is a chemical application which produces the desired result very quickly. The downside is the exposure to toxic materials that can pose serious health threats, and then the cleanup and disposal of the residue. As discussed in my previous article, Creating Patinas on Copper and Bronze, a wide variety of commercially prepared formulas are available based on the color you desire to achieve. Most, if not all of them, are quite caustic so if you’re looking for a safer option, try using some of the solutions you already have in your home.

Normally I would put the legal disclaimers at the end of an article, but the title of this piece warrants an upfront notice that simple and safe are two relative terms. While simple can be argued from an age or ability standpoint, “safe” is the term that is more of a concern to me. When statements are made that involve the term “safe” people can have a false sense of security. Even mild acids can be painful and harmful in the eyes, and when dealing with sprays there is always the potential for misted liquids to become airborne and land where they were not intended. When using a spray bottle to apply liquids on copper consider the wind direction and always hold the material downwind. Also, before you begin any application you should know what the neutralizer is for any acid you intend to use and have it handy just in case it is needed quickly. Even mild acids can be quite painful. You will want to see the results of your efforts, so always wear safety goggles to protect your eyes and rubber gloves to protect your hands. It is also a good idea to wear old clothes that you won’t mind spoiling.

Now that you’ve got your copper prepared it’s time to say that creating copper patinas is more of an art than a science. Results will vary, sometimes dramatically, so proceed with an open mind.
The first step to any patina project is preparing the metal, and cleaning off the residue of milling, handling and environmental collectives can be handled with a simple washing of dish soap and hot water may be adequate. For more fouled surfaces cleaners that contain trisodium phosphate are more effective, but also more offensive to skin. Avoid cleaners which leave a coat of oxide on the copper surface. You’ll know if the cleaning process has been done properly if you wash the copper off after cleaning and the water sheets uniformly and does not form beads. Beading indicates the presence of oils or contaminates and additional cleaning will be required.

Salt, or sodium chloride, when combined with acetic acid from the vinegar produces sodium acetate and hydrogen chloride. Hydrogen chloride is a strong acid and the combination of it and sodium acetate will quickly clean a copper surface. This cleaning process will give your metal a very pure surface, which will corrode quickly when exposed to water and the combination of oxygen and carbon dioxide in the air.

Small pieces of copper can be sprayed with vinegar, sprinkled with salt and put in a sealed plastic or glass container with a dish of cloudy ammonia overnight. The following day, rinse the mixture off and let it dry. The results should be a blue patina on a dark background. You can also embed pieces of copper in sawdust that has been dampened with vinegar. This gives an interesting effect but less colorful.
Another option for a green patina is to mix 1 Tbsp ammonium chloride (Sal ammoniac) with 1 Tbsp salt and 1 ounce of ammonia in a spray bottle with 1 quart of bottled or distilled water. Warm or hot water will help dissolve the dry ingredients more quickly. Spray it on a clean copper surface and let stand for three hours for a nice green color. Repeat several times for increased coloration. Sal ammoniac is not something that you’d normally have in your everyday kitchen, but in the spirit of “safe” chemicals I’m throwing this one in the mix. Although the kitchen aspect of this chemical is rapidly dying due to the general disuse of it as an ingredient, in the past, sal ammoniac has been used by bakers to give cookies a crisp texture. If you don’t use it in your favorite cookie recipe, it is available online from a number of sources.

Another blue-green patina can be achieved by placing a piece of copper in a glass or plastic container and covering it with sawdust saturated with ammonia liberally mixed with salt. In an hour or so you’ll begin to see a nice speckled blue-green surface. Varying the mixture and the density of the sawdust will alter the results, perhaps more to your liking.

Muriatic acid will also produce a pretty blue-green color if diluted, then sprayed on and left over night. You can pick up muriatic acid at your local hardware store. Just remember that muriatic is actually a 20% solution of hydrochloric acid so be very careful that you have adequate ventilation and the safety precautions I covered earlier.

Other colors can be obtained with preparations such as gun bluing chemicals which can produce either a blue or brown effect. Another option for brown coloration would be uric acid, which has used to apply patinas on copper and its alloys brass and brass. The most common source is cow urine. The break-down or the ammonia cycle seals and purifies the rich, brown coloration.

I’m sure there are other chemicals and combinations of chemicals that you will want to try, once you become bitten by the patina bug. These are but a few that are simple, relatively safe, and most readily available for experimentation. The most important part of the process is to do it. Get some copper, create something, and add a patina to the finish. It’s fun, it’s creative, and it’s copper!

For all your copper requirements, logon to QuickShipMetals.com, where you’ll find extensive selections of decorative copper, brass and stainless steel, crafting foils in addition to copper sheet and plating.

For assistance in ordering, click on the link to our live chat or call toll-free at 1-888-324-2177.

Creating Patinas on Copper and Bronze

Fun Projects, Metal Art, Simple Solutions

Nov 102010

By Frank Ross

A torch can create dramatic changes in a copper patina very quickly.

In addition to its many and varied uses in the electrical industry, copper is also the most popular metal for artisans because no other metal has the ability to produce so many rich, beautiful colors by virtue of its own compounds.

For the creatively inclined, the urge to see different and varied color patterns in our environment is as basic an instinct as hunger and thirst. One of the most exciting aspects of working with copper or any of it bronze alloys is the beauty that forms as a film on the metal’s surface through natural weathering or artificially introduced chemical treatments. This chemical film is called a patina and the process patination.

The natural patination process takes time, and depending on the environment impacting a particular piece of metal it may take years. For many, the additional down side to the lengthy natural process is dissatisfaction with the resulting coloration after the long wait. So, it’s not difficult to understand the popularity of hurrying the process along. Expediting this process can be achieved with either heat or chemicals, and the difficulty factor varies from simple to complicated and potentially hazardous.

Although we live in an age of instant gratification, this love affair with man-made patinas is not a recent phenomena. Historically, the use of patinas can be traced all the way back to ancient China, and the earliest periods of bronze casting. Ancient pieces have been unearthed with distinct evidence of chemically induced patinas. While experts speculate over whether the coloration was done for establishing class distinction or simply for decorative beauty, the simple fact that patinas have been around for a very long time is undisputed.

The copper pattern on the left is called Georgia, and on the right is the New York pattern. Both have a patina created by heat. They are set on top of unaltered copper for comparison.

As the sophistication of chemical treatments for creating patinas improved, rivaling those formed naturally, techniques using wax and oil treatments were developed to protect and preserve the coloration. Over the centuries, individual foundries developed secret formulas for distinctive patterns of coloration that came to distinguish their castings. Naturally these formulas became highly guarded secrets that were not divulged. Even today, artisans who develop distinctive formulas guard them carefully; however, there are many formulas that are commonly known and shared freely.

We’ll start with the easiest method, heat, and then move on to commonly available household chemicals that produce good coloration. Once you’re comfortable with the basics, we’ll take on the more complicated methods and formulas.

Heat is one of the simplest methods of achieving varied and interesting color patterns with copper, but it’s difficult to duplicate the colors with regularity or over large areas. Chemical patinas are more predictable and with practice, patience and attention to detail they’re more consistently duplicated. Over the centuries, metal artisans have discovered the key to consistent results requires minimizing the variables by strict adherence to quality materials, exacting measurements and methodical application techniques. This is not a process that can be approached with apple pie techniques which call for pinch of this and a dab of that.

Some of the variables that impacting patina results include the composition of the metal being used, the particular formula selected for application, purity of the chemicals and water used in the formulation, method of application and perhaps most important – surface preparation.

While every step and element of this process is important, you can’t achieve a consistent, quality patina when you start with a dirty surface. All traces of oxidation, oils and contamination must be removed before you apply patina chemicals. The most common offenders that require removal are oils that have accumulated from handling and the manufacturing process. To avoid recontamination and protect your skin as well, use a pair of heavy-duty industrial gloves during the cleaning and rinsing process as well as subsequent handling prior to chemical application.

A fast cleaning process can be achieved with acids or combinations of acids by dipping the copper in an undiluted bath of 50% sulfuric acid and 50% nitric acid for a few seconds, but this is not a method that is practical for home use. A more practical approach requiring minimal physical effort is to soak the metal’s surface in a 10% solution of sulfuric acid for six hours. For metal that is badly oxidized you may have to rub aggressively with a fine grade of steel wool or a Scotchbrite pad. Once the excessive oxidation is removed wash the surface with a good quality detergent and rinse it thoroughly in water, wipe the surface dry with a solvent such as methyl alcohol. Use a clean towel, compressed air or a hair dryer to dry the surface completely and apply your prepared chemicals within a half hour to avoid re-contamination.
As mentioned above, the easiest chemical-free (other than surface preparation) method for producing a wide variety of colors on copper is using heat. Once your metal has been properly cleaned you simply pass a blue gas flame slowly back and forth across the metal’s surface and observe the change in coloration as the temperature rises. The best method of producing the heat is to use a small, hand-held propane torch that is commonly available in any hardware store.

Once you begin to apply heat, you’ll notice that the colors develop slowly and change gradually, beginning with a reddish orange hue. Additional heat will change the reddish orange to a bluish purple. Next you’ll observe a brassy color followed by a darkening red that transitions into a deep purple. The final effect is an iridescent chestnut. Once you see this color develop, remove the heat immediately. If you continue to apply heat after the chestnut color begins to appear the color will flake off and you’ll have to clean the surface again and start the patina process from scratch. There can also be disappointment on the early ends of this color spectrum as the first two colors can partially disappear when the surface is coated. All other colors are permanent, so it is best to stay in the middle of the color spectrum.

Once you’ve achieved a patina that is pleasing to your eye, the next step is to protect the colors you’ve achieved. You can apply a wax such as Johnson’s Paste Wax while the metal is still warm or wait until it has cooled to apply a coating of lacquer. If you apply wax, once the metal has cooled you’ll need to buff the waxed surface to get a polished appearance.

In our next installment we’ll experiment with common household chemicals and you’ll be amazed at the results you can achieve.

QuickShipMetals.com offers a number of decorative copper styles for your patination.

Aluminum Diamond Plate, the Decorative and Durable metal

Fun Projects, Simple Solutions

Jun 252010

By Frank Ross

There are many ways to dress up a truck, trailer, garage or workspace but none of them have the dramatic impact and appeal that aluminum diamond plate provides. The popularity and durability of diamond plate is most often seen on fire trucks, ambulances and heavy-duty trucks, but in recent years folks have found a way to incorporate this highly durable, attractive metal into just about every conceivable form known to man. Simply put, if a design idea in conceived, someone has built it in diamond plate.

In addition to the standard motor vehicle dress ups, tool boxes, kick plates and workbench applications, diamond plate shop accessories have been created in everything from tool and towel racks, trash cans, switch plates and even shop lights. However, if you’re the typical home owner with a shop and tools, you want to make as many of these yourself to save a few bucks and have the exact dimensions that meet your particular needs.

For common uses such as kick plates, Quick Ship Metals has precut diamond plate aluminum ready to ship, and special orders cut to specific sizes are not a problem. Both are routinely shipped out daily. For a quick solution to shelving needs in a garage or work area, these heavy-duty one-piece Diamond Plate Shelves are perfect. They’re extremely strong and ready to mount.

Although the eye appeal is a strong motivator for using diamond plate, the ease of working with it is also a major factor. You can cover a lot of abuse on the front, sides and back gate of a horse trailer by wrapping it with .063 diamond plate. It’s easy to cut, shape and attach with a minimal amount of tools and labor. Another positive aspect of this versatile metal is the added weight to a vehicle or trailer is minimal.

When selecting diamond plate, the most common question consumers have is related to thickness. In general there are two common areas of application, decorative and structural. For decorative use where you are not supporting weight, .063 would be a good thickness. Our .080 and .125 diamond plate is ideal for applications where you need more strength such as the interior walls of a trailer. These grades are great for uses that do not require structural support. Our Heavy Duty Aluminum Diamond Plate Corner Protectors, made of .125 DP, are very popular. It features a one piece design for solid strength and rugged protection. Some people also use the .080 grade for wainscoting in high traffic areas. For structural use or for building trailer ramps that have to support a lot of weight, use ¼” 6061-T6 TREAD PLATE.

If you’re the type of person that is more of a hands-on craftsman, the sample pack enables you to hold the metal in your hands and get the feel for the various gauges. For only $12.99 you can order an Aluminum Diamond Plate Sample Pack that contains .063″ through .125″ thicknesses offered by Quickshipmetals.com. The .250″ thickness is not in our sample pack but available upon request.

As a dedicated Harley rider in a very hot climate I can tell you that parking your motorcycle on asphalt, sand or plain dirt and hoping the kickstand won’t sink into the hot surface and topple is no way to leave your ride. What you need is a custom cut 6” x 6” Motorcycle Kickstand Plate. Besides being a sharp addition to your bike, having the peace of mind is worth a lot more than the cost of this handy plate. Another great idea for bikes is the Flame Motorcycle Pad.

This flame sculpted diamond plate motorcycle pad is custom cut from .080 aluminum diamond plate and it will provide your bike with a stunning parking spot that your buddies will definitely envy. This 10’ x 4’ bike pad will accommodate most size motorcycles and includes a non-skid rubber mat to rest on.
When the brightly polished look isn’t what you’re looking for, consider Black Aluminum Diamond Plate .063″. This unique metal gives you the advantages of a tread plate surface, without the weight of steel.

Another positive aspect of using aluminum diamond plate is the ease of care. After a while, the accumulation of road dirt and residue can leave your beautiful metal with a dull appearance. With a few easy steps and a little elbow grease, you can quickly restore the once-bright shine. Start by using a very fine steel wool to remove any accumulation of dirt and film. Next you need to use a lime-cleaning agent and a rough sponge to scrub the surface thoroughly. If you have sensitive skin, when using strong cleaners a pair of heavy-duty rubber gloves is always the wise option. Once you’ve got the film and road dirt removed, wash away the cleaner with soap and water. Now you need to apply some Mother’s Aluminum polish. A microfiber cloth is the preferred method of application, and it is best to work the polish into the surface slowly concentrating on small areas at a time for a smoother, even appearance.

Once the polish has fully dried, finish off the process and add a layer of protection by applying a coat of Mothers aluminum wax. This is the most challenging part of the job, so be very careful to use very small amounts of wax at a time. Trying to wax a large area can lead to spotting and streaking. To prevent the wax from building up on the edges, apply the wax in as thin a coating as possible, paying particular attention to rub out any streaks that begin forming.

QuickShipMetals.com carries Aluminum Diamond Plate in sizes and gauges that are perfect for any application. For additional information or assistance with your order, login to our Live Text and Chat Support try our toll free number, 1-888-2177.

Copper Sheet for Roof Flashing, a wise decision that buys peace of mind

Problem Solved, Simple Solutions

Jun 032010

By Frank Ross

The most common places for damaging water leaks in residential construction occur where roof flashing is installed, and poor installation is most often the cause of failure.

Flashings are the critical material that forms the barrier between the primary roofing material (asphalt shingles, ceramic tiles, etc.) and objects that don’t get covered by that material. Regardless of the roofing material, the critical areas with the highest potential for leaks are these transitional areas.

Pliable metal flashing is used to direct water away from valleys or dormers created by changes in the roofline, plumbing or fan vents, a chimney, or a skylight installation. Copper is the preferred material, though there are other cheaper materials being used today and is practically leak proof when installed properly. Poor installation of non-copper metals that depend on caulks or roofing cement to seal out moisture are certain to leak over time as constant exposure to the elements slowly destroys the adhesive and elastic qualities of these chemical sealants.

Depending on the material used, the lifespan of a roof can range dramatically, and this means that the flashing in these critical areas of exposure must meet or exceed the life span of the roofing material. When flashing metals are used it is critical that they must be easily shaped and soldered, brazed or welded readily. And while some installations can be done using crimps, a permanent seal is the most secure option.

Soldered joints will stand the extreme temperature swings and the resulting expansion and contraction that a roof is exposed to. The most troublesome areas are where flashing must be formed around a corner such as a chimney or dormer, or where two pieces must be spliced together. Traditional flashing metals include copper, tin coated steel, lead and galvanized steel.

Copper flashing is the preferred metal because it performs far better than other metals in all areas of concern. It is malleable and easily formed, easily soldered and is very durable. Copper sheeting used for roof flashing is also known as 16-ounce copper because the .0216” thickness required for this application weighs about 16 ounces per 12” x 12” sheet. Tin coated steel and galvanized steel will eventually rust and corrode. While it is possible to paint tin and galvanized metals, it is very difficult to get paint to adhere properly due to oils on the surface from the manufacturing process. Cleaning the surface is required, special primers and several coats of the finish paint are best but seldom used, so peeling or flaking paint will eventually give way to rust and flashing failure. Aluminum cannot be soldered, and if it is used to flash around a chimney or a brick wall, it will corrode rapidly. The chemical composition of the mortar will attack and destroy the aluminum!

Valley flashings are generally divided into two categorize, open and closed. As implied by the name, open valleys are visible when completed and closed valleys are not. When open valleys are installed, long sheets of 16 oz. (minimum) copper are cleated to the sheathing and underlayment before any shingles are applied. Adjacent sheets of copper are overlapped a minimum of 8″. The sheets are nailed only at the top and copper or bronze nails are used.
Closed valleys are constructed as the shingles are installed by inserting copper flashing squares between successive layers of shingles. These flashing squares are folded on the diagonal.

When slate or tile is used for the primary roofing material, 20 oz. plain or lead coated copper is recommended for use in valley flashing. But keep in mind that building codes vary widely across the U.S., so you should check with your local codes before beginning any project.

Once you’re ready to start, remember that QuickShipMetals.com has an extensive stock of copper sheeting in all sizes and thicknesses that are appropriate for roofing flashing. Give our friendly customer service staff a call for a price quote that won’t send you through the roof!

Call toll-free: 1-888-334-2177

Copper Solves another Computer Overheating Problem

Problem Solved, Simple Solutions

May 062010

Once again the heat radiating properties of copper provides a solution to a high-tech overheating issue with computer components. With computers and especially video cards, fast isn’t often fast enough, and the ever present quest for more speed usually leads to an upgrade of existing components, which sometimes creates compatibility and heat issues, especially in the confined spaces of a laptop.

When Dell owners upgraded the video card in an Inspiron 8500 with the Mobility Radeon 9600 Pro Turbo, over heating became a serious issue. Although the Inspiron BIOS recognizes the Radeon 9600 correctly and it does work in the 8500, there is no BIOS support for the overheating issue.

During operation, users discovered the BIOS shut-off temperature is set low enough that the heat generated by the upgraded video card will cause the notebook to shut down. Thanks to Dell Community Member MadMax for supplying the pictures and the instructions that solves this problem. They key to the solution is using a small piece of copper plate that measures 3cm x 3cm x 1.5mm thick. Other items required include a heat sink compound such as Arctic Silver 5, rapid glue such as cyanacrylat from Loctite, soldering paste to clean the copper, Acetone and a small Philips head screwdriver.

It appears that the main issue that needs to be addressed is with the thermal pads that Dell uses for contact between the chip and heat sink on both GPU and CPU. These pads are quite thick and only marginally effective so you need to replace them with the 1.5 mm thick copper plate so the heat sink and GPU chip makes contact.
First, disassemble the video card until it looks like this photo. Then remove the pad that covers the die of the GPU. Clean the die with Acetone or Isopropyl alcohol that is over 99% pure. Apply the thermal compound to the copper plate, and then apply the rapid glue to each corner of the copper plate. Next, fix the copper plate to the metal making sure the side with the heat sink compound and glue is facing the metal. Apply some thermal compound on the die and screw the parts together making sure that you do not tighten the screws too much, which can crack if too much pressure is applied to the die. Remember, copper expands when it gets warm so you need to make sure there is enough room for expansion.

Install the card back into your notebook and you will note that the CPU operates at about 50°C while the GPU heats up to 75-80°C in 3D games, compared to the original 100°C.

For more detailed photos and instructions, use this link and note the English instructions are on the photos. MadMax instructions.
Copper, so many solutions for such a simple metal! Call 1-888-334-2177 for your copper solution.

Magnetic Spice Rack Simplifies Food Preparation

Fun Projects, Simple Solutions

May 062010

Our customers come up with some great ideas when it comes to beautifying and simplifying kitchens and the necessities of preparing food. Magnetic stainless is an excellent option for a kitchen environment because it is so easy to care for and so durable in this challenging environment of heat, water and recipes that create air-borne oil and grease.

If you’re tired of digging through stacks or racks of various spices and blends of your favorites, then this may be just the solution you’re looking for. There’s nothing more frustrating than finding the right bottle of seasoning to discover that it is almost empty. In addition to ease of use, this rack also makes it easy to see when a particular spice is getting low and needs to be restocked.

With this magnetic rack, every type of spice you need to create your favorite dishes is within easy reach and with the open-ended containers it’s a snap to identify just the right container required for seasoning perfection.

Quick Ship Metals has the magnetic stainless steel, and you can spicing up your life quicker than you can say chicken cacciatore when you pick up the metal tins with clear lids online, for only $4.95 each at this link: Tins with clear lids.

Mastering the Metal Box

Fun Projects, Simple Solutions

Mar 122010

The first step in building a metal box is to notch the corners.

To kick off Metallic Moments, our series on metal working and fabricating, let’s take a look at one of the basic techniques in metal work – making square corners. Jim Koper is a master metal worker at Storm Copper and he has a passion for custom work that lets him exercise his creative nature.

“The first step to making a metal box is notching out the corners so they’ll meet at the right angle when you bend them together. While you can bend sheet metal up to 16 gauge by hand, using a piece of wood and a mallet, it is a very difficult and tedious process. And for 18 gauge you’d really have to struggle with it. So, once I’ve notched all four corners, I’ll be using a box and pan handbrake to bend the sides,” he said.

Koper went on to explain that a sheet metal handbrake bends sheet metal by using a hinged clamping bar to hold the metal down against the bed. A hinged bending “leaf” is lifted to fold the metal around the fulcrum point of the clamping bar to the desired angle. However, with a standard hand brake can only bend three sides. A box and pan brake is designed to prevent the metal from hitting against the clamping bar when the 3rd and 4th sides are being bent. The clamping bar on a box and pan handbrake is divided up into many assemblies called “fingers” which can be removed at each end of the box.

Once the corners are formed, Koper uses a TIG welder to seal the two pieces of each corner together, and then he grinds away the excess bead to dress up the seam and make the corners into a smooth joint. Tungsten inert gas (TIG) welding, is an arc welding process that uses a nonconsumable tungsten electrode to weld two pieces of metal together. During the bonding process, the area to be welded is protected from atmospheric contamination by a shielding gas and a filler metal is normally used. The shielding gas is usually an inert gas such as argon.

“The twisted handles I put on top are made from ¼” square stock that has been heated to 1200 degrees to anneal or soften the copper. Then once it cools, I put one end in a vice and use an adjustable wrench to twist it, and then make the curve by bending it over a piece of pipe,” he added.

The next step is to pickle the whole box in muriatic acid to remove the scale that develops from welding, and then it’s just hand polishing to develop the final finish. While admiring his work, Koper offers a bit of encouragement to those who would like to duplicate this box. “Boxes aren’t that difficult to make, just basic hand work.”
This beautiful copper box was fabricated using .024 gauge decorative copper sheet. Contact our friendly customers service staff at 1-888-334-2177, or order online at quickshipmetals.com.

Older Entries

Quick Ship Metals News-Blog

Stain-less Steel is Not Care-less, but almost

Stainless Steel Kitchens = Beauty, Simplicity, Durability!

Dressing up Engine #92

Simple, Safe Patinas From Your Kitchen Cabinet

Creating Patinas on Copper and Bronze

Aluminum Diamond Plate, the Decorative and Durable metal

Copper Sheet for Roof Flashing, a wise decision that buys peace of mind

Copper Solves another Computer Overheating Problem

Magnetic Spice Rack Simplifies Food Preparation

Mastering the Metal Box

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