Ask Frank
Customers often ask questions about Quick Ship Metals products – about custom cuts, how to install kitchen backsplashes, trim, molding, whatnot. Blogger and man of all trades, Frank Ross knows how to dig for answers.
Frank has access to all of the people working at Quick Ship Metals’ fabrication, sales and customer service. So consider this page a forum for all kinds of ideas, questions and best of all – answers.
Enter questions in the “Your Comment” box.
Ask Frank your how-to or DIY questions.
Hi Frank. I want to make a magnetic board in my kitchen (since all the stainless refrigerators aren’t magnetic these days!). I want to buy an interesting, modern metal sheet, about 18″ * 5′ and maybe 1/4 to 1/2″ thick to put in an inset area I have on my wall. I was hoping to find something treated to have either a blued or iridescent effect, but subtle. Not shiny. Any good ideas?
Delia, I had to give this one some thought . . . over a glass of wine! If you build the rack out of wood and then wrap it with .010 copper foil you’ll have the best of both worlds; form and function. And, it should be a real eye catcher. The foil is very thin and easy to work with, but you may also find it wrinkles easily. If that’s a problem, use a rubber roller and apply medium pressure while you work the wrinkles toward the edges.
Sounds like a fun project with numerous benefits.
Frank
Hi Dustan, You can glue diamond plate to any surface that is clean and clear of oil and dirt. Since you’re working with a tool box, I’m thinking you’ll want to clean the surface carefully. Use Liquid Nails and let it cure adequately before use.
Frank
Frank
I have a tool boox with a a sheet of wood that is 2′ x 4′ on top. I would like to install a diamond plate sheet over the top can I just glue it down?
Hi Dan’elle, We only sell one thickness of magnetic stainless steel; .030, so that’s the easy part. Let me suggest a simple solution that should be a great option, if you’re happy with the current molding you have in place. Measure the inside dimensions you want to use for the magnetic stainless steel and ask for a custom cut. There is no charge for this service and you won’t have to deal with the challenge of cutting it. The next step would be to clean the Formica of any dirt or oil from finger prints and apply a think coat of Liquid Nails. Press the stainless steel in place and allow the adhesive to cure 24 hours and you’ll be done.
If you’re not happy with the current molding, you’ll probably have to use a tool such as a putty knife to remove the existing material. Without knowing what adhesive was used it’s hard to say what will work to remove it, but I’ve found Lacquer thinner to be a good all-round solvent. You might also try Acetone, but keep in mind that all chemicals strong enough to remove an adhesive are toxic. You should use a pair of heavy-duty rubber gloves, a face mask and make sure you have adequate ventilation before applying any adhesive remover. Also, protect your eyes from splashes with a pair of safety glasses.
Frank
I am working on a wine rack — have some wine tiles in a brick “hole” where an old electric grill used to live…..2 sets leave a space and 3 sets won’t fit — so I’m trying to design a few shelves to go in between the 2 sets….I would love copper….Would it be best to get some sheeting or foil and then adhere to wood in the dimension I need? Liquid nails? Can I get it cut in the dimension I need? And how easy then would it be to “wrap” the front edge — so I see copper instead of wood? Any other ideas? I’d say an estimate of the dimension is 10″ wide and 12″ deep…..and I need 3. Thanks……great to have found your website!
Hi Frank I would like to put magnetic stainless steel sheeting on my daughters’ walls. I currently have a gray formic that was likely adhered with some type of glue. It also has a molding to separate the paint from the formica. I would like to know what size (thickness) magnetic sheeting you recommend, what I use to cut the sheeting, what I use to clean the current adhesive (which I don’t specifically know) and what I use to adhere the magnetic sheeting to the walls. Thank you
Dan’elle
Mary, This is a popular project and one that will be loved for many years. This stainless steel sheeting has a brushed finish and I would recommend that you enclose it in a frame or molding of some type. Framing it just makes it look a bit more professional and complete. Here’s a link you a page on our site that explains the complete process for building and hanging a magnetic stainless steel bulletin board, which is the same thing only different!
http://www.quickshipmetals.com/304-stainless-steel/magnetic-board-message-board.html
Have fun with your project.
Frank
Hey Bill, you’re ambitious. I’ve never tried my hand at chimineas but I know someone who might have some valuable input. I’ll check with him and see what his experience leads to.
PART II: Bill, According to my sources, the .0216 copper flashing should work great. http://store.electrical-insulators-and-copper-ground-bars.com/copper-coil-sheeting-0216-thick—16-oz-soft-copper-coil-sheeting.html
Frank
Brad, You can either glue the copper flashing or nail it. I’d recommend nailing to ensure that over time you don’t have a problem due to exposure to the elements. As to width, I would recommend the 8” wide .0216. You’ll have to determine what design you think is best for the roof pitch, or seek the advice of a professional roofer.
http://store.electrical-insulators-and-copper-ground-bars.com/copper-coil-sheeting-0216-thick—16-oz-soft-copper-coil-sheeting-copper-coil-sheeting-8-inches-wide.html
Frank
Hey Frank, My daughter wants a magnetic spice rack. I am thinking of getting one of your magnetic steel sheets. Then she would just need magnets on the back of her spices.How does this product look? Is is a polished sheet of steel? Are the edges raw and need to be boxed in with a frame? Also, how would you hang this sheet on the wall? Any suggestions would be great.
Thanks, Mary
Frank I am thinking about making copper Chimineas. what gage would you recommend.
Hi Raylene, Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, so while it is possible to attach a piece of stainless steel to a wall with screws, how the appearance is perceived would be subject to the person passing judgment. There are many varieties of screws on the market today, some with fairly simple heads that would not be obtrusive, but again what i think would be attractive probably would not serve another well. What I would suggest is for you to take a trip to the local hardware store and spend some time looking at their varied screw heads and possible ways to conceal it if you find nothing promising. Over the years, I’ve found that it’s always best to review the options before committing to a major project.
Frank
Hi Lisa, we would be happy to do a custom cut for your “embarrassed” Fridge. Just call our customer service staff and give them the specific measurements for a prompt price quote and speedy delivery. The paintless stainless specs are supposed to be the same and they should match up, but there is no guarantee.
Frank
Hi Simon, Cutting 16 Gauge stainless is a bit challenging. The Dremel should work if you don’t have a long cut to make, but I would say the jig saw would serve you better for outlet access. If you’re making a long cut, the 32 TPI blade would be your best bet. Backing with plywood is a application specific issue, and you’ll have to make that decision based on how you intend on mounting the stainless in your particular design application.
thanks, Frank
Frank
How to apply copper ridge cap on 1 inch thick wood shakes. And what width and thickness should I buy?
Hi Frank,
Would love to use stainless as a backsplash around oven/stove area, but do not want to glue it to the wall; wall is cinderblock base smooth textured with mudding to look smooth not like the block. Would like to screw it to the wall, because in future (few yrs) will replace the stove/oven and don’t want another backsplash removal, re texture the wall job. Is it possible with the gauge thickness to screw two pieces to the wall 24×24 and 24×36 with a good aesthetic affect?
Good Morning!
Would custom stainless panels work on a refridgerator? I love my Fridge, but he lacks stainless. Fridge’s new friends, Dishwasher and Stove are a stainless/black combo. I don’t want Fridge to have a complex.
Are all printless stainless specs made equal? Or should I check for color/hue matches with a sample pack?
Thanks Frank. And any hints on which tool will work best for cutting (4.5″ cut-off wheel, dremel + mini cut-off, Jigsaw with 32 TPI blade)? As well as electrical outlets I have two 18″ * .5″ strips to cut, too. 16 GA 304 SS. And any thoughts on necessity of glueing plywood backing on for cutting? Thanks.
Hi Eric, Depending on how thick you want your plate to be, we could provide a circle you could use to make your plates. We can offer circle cuts up to .125 thick. Once you have a circle you could press the copper or use a form and hammer to shape it. Here’s a link to more information on our circles. http://store.electrical-insulators-and-copper-ground-bars.com/copper-circle.html
Morning Simon, Although some heat is a natural byproduct of cutting metal, the bad discoloration occurs when you linger too long in one spot. Using sharp blades and feeding it through at a reasonable pace is the best way to reduce heat discoloration. Keep in mind that you’ll have a switch-plate to cover the edges. If you cut the hole the correct size, the plate should conceal any discoloration.
Frank
Hello Frank, I am wondering how to make a copper plate. I would like it to be 12 to 13 inches in diameter. what thickness would you suggest. would it be better to press or lathe the shape. thanks
Hi, I ordered some 304 16 Ga SS from you to use as a kitchen backsplash. I need to cut electrical outlet holes and also partially trim a half-inch 2 ft length. I intend to do this myself. I’ve read of various options including grinder cut-off wheel, dremel cut-off wheel, and jigsaw. I have these tools to hand. I’ve also read about gluing backing plywood, using masking tape, and cutting fluid. I’d appreciate any advice regarding cutting and avoiding heat discoloration. Thanks.
Hi Sandy, I’m not sure what type of sink you’re talking about, so it’s difficult to respond with any certainty. I’ve never used Hope’s Perfect Sink polish, so I’m afraid you’ll have to go to the manufacturer of your sink or the polish. Wish I could be more encouraging.
Frank
Hi Becky, The thickness you use would be relative to how much abuse you think it will take. The thicker the metal, the more contact it will handle without bending. Since you’ll be putting the metal over drywall, that surface will dent easily, so if the metal is thin it would be possible to dent the metal and the drywall behind it. I’d think you should use a thickness at least 18 gauge, or .048 and more safely the 16 gauge which measures out at .060. As far as the pattern, that’s more of a personal preference. What pleases one person’s eye displeases another. That said, I would suggest you consider the CT pattern which would look great in a contemporary setting.
Frank
Hey Joe, just contact our customer service staff. I don’t do price quotes. It’s outside my authority. 1-888-334-2177
Thanks, Frank
Andrea, I would suggest you talk with your contractor and get his input first. He would be the best source of information on your question. It would be speculation on my part, not knowing your contractor’s input, but if your backsplash is going to extend up behind the vent and cooktop it would seem to me to be better to have it installed first.
Frank
Andrea, The 24 gauge is adequate for a backsplash. 24 Gauge is the thinnest. It is the same thickness as a credit card.
24 Ga .020
22 GA .03
20 GA .036
18 GA .048
16 GA .060
Frank
Hi, Frank,
I used Hope’s Perfect Sink to clean my 2 years old sink without read all the instructions carefully. Now, the “mirror finish” were all gone. I don’t know if it can be refinished. How should I do at this point to protect it from further damages?
Thank you very much for your time and help.
Sandy
hi frank,
re: stainless steel backsplash
in addition to my previous inquiry, what gauge of stainless steel is best or minimum gauge…24, 18, 16?
hi frank
re: stainless steel backsplash
should i wait till the contractor finishes installing the vent, cooktop, and cabinets before placing the order? the dimensions are 36″wide X 28″height (base from the kitchen cabinet designer’s layout). should i order a longer piece, example; 36″wide X 36″height and let the contractor measure and cut?…just in case he may need a longer piece or get the exact fit?
Hi, Frank, we are finishing out a new home and would like to cover the sheet rock curved bar front with a copper sheeting that will protect the wall from peoples shoes etc. It is approximately 15 ft by 36 in high. Can you tell me what would we need by thickness and would we be able to use the liquid nails on the painted sheet rock surface? Also it is a very contemporary home…which copper pattern would best reflect that? Will the copper patina? We would like that. thanks
hey frank,i am thinking about buying your 1.000″ Diameter x 36″ Brass Round Rod Alloy C360
ROD-BS-360-1000-36
$69.25.
what would you charge for cutting this into 1 inch pieces ?
Hi Christine, You can use stainless steel for this project, but you will probably need to have our staff do a custom cut and bend to ensure an even edge on the wrap. You’ll need to use Liquid Nails to adhere the panel once you’re ready. Give our customer service department a call and they’ll give you a fast quote on the project. You’ll probably need to fax a detailed drawing to be sure it’s done to your specifications. The call is toll-free: 1-888-334-2177.
Good luck, Frank
Morning Mark, If you use the .0216 copper foil you should be enjoying a warm fire this winter, without tripping the smoke alarm. This gauge comes in a roll so it will need to be hammered to fit the shape. It will be the best choice to get the length that you need and make any cuts. Also, the most economical. A second choice would be .010 copper foil. Here’s a handy link to our copper foils. Here’s another link that lists the various thicknesses of copper we sell and the common uses for each — Copper Foil Description.
Hey Pete, I checked with our roofing experts and you’re headed in the right direction. That gauge should work fine under those conditions.
Frank
The method we recommend is Liquid Nails. Just make sure you clean the surface to remove all grease and oils that have accumulated. If the surface you are attaching the metal to is very slick, like glazed tile, you should rough it up as much as possible with a heavy grade of steelwool and vacuum up the residue or the little bits of steel will rust quickly.
Edge treatments are always the proper way to finish any project. It gives the entire project a professional touch. Here’s a handy link to the edge treatments we offer. The amount of heat you’ll have on the metal won’t be significant and the Liquid Nails will hold fine. Follow the manufacturers recommendations and you should have a beautiful kitchen to admire.
Frank
Hi John, our mirror finished stainless steel should work well for that project. Having some experience with horses and the destructive things they can do when they’re bored, or not, I would recommend bonding it to a flat surface so the horse can’t get a nose or teeth behind the metal. The stainless steel sheeting doesn’t come with any holes, but it’s not that difficult to drill a few. Still, bonding it with Liquid Nails would eliminate any raised surfaces such as the heads of screws or bolts that could snag hair or hide. If you have a typical stall, perhaps attaching a piece of plywood and then bonding the metal to that would be the most secure. The thinner the plywood the better, and I would use plywood instead of pressed wood because it would be more resistant to chewing.
Good luck with your project. If the mirror fails to amuse your steed, perhaps taped reruns of the Kentucky Derby on a widescreen would work.
I am looking for what is generally called a stainless steel “stable mirror”. It is a mirror placed in a horse’s stall to relieve their anxiety for a various number of reasons. I have looked at your product S-SS-M8-T304-030-24-36 as a possibility and wondered if you think it would work for this function or if you have a better recommendation and what method would you use for installation of the mirror (do they come with holes or can you drill holes in it, can you use adhesive, hangers, etc.). Thanks
How are the pre-cut stainless steel backsplashes attached to the wall? I have a standard 24 x 30 inch space between my residential gas range and exhaust hood where I’d like to use one. At present the area is covered with a white Formica backsplash with stainless steel trim that’s been there for about 20 yrs.but is in excellent condition. I’d like to just install the new backsplash over the old one. Is trim or any other materials needed? Anything else I should consider because it will be near heat? Thanks.
frank… putting a new copper roof on a 10 wide bow window with a rise in the back of 14 inches … would rc-sc-021-240-15 do the job… the roof is under a large oak that loves to drop acorns?
Frank,
I would like a price on a piece of stainless steel 32 x 96, 18 gauge, plus edges for the 2 long sides.
Frank;
I have a relatively large fireplace that smokes some and I want to install a piece of copper foil or sheeting that is about 55 inches wide and 8 inches high to improve the draft (decrease the draw surface area). I need something that is stiff enough to hold its shape yet pliable enough to make 90s and cut to the proper shape. The sides of the fireplace is stone (not flat or uniform) so I would like to be able to hammer the copper to better fit the sides. Am I crazy? Can this be done? Money is a consideration also. Thanks
Mark
I have a kitchen aid dishwasher and the dimensions wrap around will i be able to make the door stainless steel? Do i need to glue it because its not a slide out door. What type of glue will hold it?
Hi David, you weren’t specific in your question about supplying material for this project so I’m assuming that you want to enclose the light fixtures in a box of metal such as copper or brass. Without knowing the details of your design, I’d have to say that we have a wide variety of copper and brass sheeting in numerous gauges that would be ideal for such a project. When you’ve got a firm handle on the design, give our customer service staff a call on our toll-free line and they’ll be happy to provide you with a quote for the materials you will need.
Thanks for asking Frank
I have 6 2ft x 4ft light fixtures left over from a office project and want to install them in my garage. But these are the lay in style. They are designed to lay in a normal 2ft x 4ft drop ceiling. So I need a box to lay them in. Need a 2ft x 4ft box with a lip on the bottom side 3/8 inch for the light to sit on but leave the fixture open enough to gain access to the bulbs when needed. I will mount this to the ceiling of my garage. So all I am doing is putting a pretty boarder around these lights. The lights are about 4 inches think so this 2 ft x 4ft box will be about 5 or 6 inches tall with a 3/8 lip on the bottom.
Can you supply all or part of this project?
Susan, sounds like a good plan to me. You’ll have an updated look and a more durable surface for many years. If you’re considering just covering the inset areas of the cabinet doors that should be relatively straight forward. I’d recommend that you measure twice to be sure, and measure each door because even machine made cabinets can vary slightly from one run to the next. We can do custom cuts, or you can cut your own using a hand jigsaw with a fine-toothed metal blade. Just go slow and take your time. Secure the metal to the cabinets using liquid nails, and clamp them tightly to make sure you have a good bond across the surface. A piece of 3/8″ or 1/2″ plywood should be used over the metal’s surface and use some scrap wood on the door’s reverse side to prevent damage. You could also remove the doors and place them on a garage floor, then place the plywood over them and place a heavy object like a concrete block if you don’t have adequate clamps. Since you’ll be refacing against a solid surface, 24 gauge metal would be adequate on the thickness question. You can use one of the decorative patterns and we will be happy to make custom sizes for you. The other option is copper foil. This can be purchased on a roll and simply adhering this to your cabinet doors you will have a new look. The foil will require construction adhesive mentioned above. Let me offer you a link to the products that I have mentioneddecorative copper and the copper foil.
The copper foil .010 will be easier to work with and less likely to tear. It is a great all around crafting foil.
Have fun with your project, Frank
Hi Nick, Let start out with the decorative copper, it will make a lovely range hood. I’d go with the .020 thickness. You should consider using a copper bar stock to trim out the edges to give more dimension. It is always best to add some dimension when working with such an elaborate design. A few extra dollars in the beginning will give off a great look.
Good luck with your project, Frank
Hi Frank,
I am in the process of building a custom hood for my kitchen. I would like to cover the bottom of the hood with copper and create a 4″ wide border.It is a 36″ wide hood. The exposed outside panel would be 36″ front and 12″ on left and right sides – total of 60″. Which thinckness copper sheet should I use ?
Thanks,
Nick
Hi Frank,
I’m considering wrapping my kitchen cabinet door fronts in metal… maybe hammered… maybe embossed… as a way to avoid buying new cabinets and as a way to add an arty look to the kitchen. Do you have any suggestions for me? Thank you!
Susan