Ask Frank
Customers often ask questions about Quick Ship Metals products – about custom cuts, how to install kitchen backsplashes, trim, molding, whatnot. Blogger and man of all trades, Frank Ross knows how to dig for answers.
Frank has access to all of the people working at Quick Ship Metals’ fabrication, sales and customer service. So consider this page a forum for all kinds of ideas, questions and best of all – answers.
Enter questions in the “Your Comment” box.
Ask Frank your how-to or DIY questions.
Hi Marie,
This can be done easily with construction adhesive. The decorative stainless steel comes in 24 gauge and that’s a great thickness to work with. If you would like something thicker you can use the plain stainless which comes in 24 gauge up to 16 gauge. We will be happy to provide a quote if you would like to submit your measurements. Just give us a call on our toll-free line, 1-888-334-2177.
I would like to do a stainless steel fireplace surround. I have an existing painted brick wall that surrounds the fireplace and would like to know if it can be done. What gauge would work,is there any upkeep to it, and what would I use for an adhesive?
Hi Jeanne, You’ll find the 24 gauge stainless steel works fine for a backsplash. The corner molding is made out of fairly thin material and can be bent to accommodate the 45-degree corner. The J-molding should dress up the ends nicely. Here’s a link to our stainless steel trim and molding page.
Good luck with your project, and thanks for asking Frank
We are wanting to use stainless as a backsplash around our slide-in range. What gauge would you suggest? Also what type of stainless molding should we use at outer edge of the wall. We also will need inside corner molding and will order that, but weren’t sure if we would need J molding or outside corner edging for the side wall (which actually forms a 45 degree corner rather than standard 90 degree corner)? Any help will be appreciated?!
Thanks, Jeanne Heitmann
Tony, you’ve got a fun project lined up.
We only offer the Mirror Stainless in 22 gauge, so that simplifies that choice. In regards to the diamond plate; if you’re using the DP as a fascia I would think that the .063” thickness would be a good choice. However, if you’re just trying to cover up the existing firewall you could go as thin as you want since it will not be a structural support. Keep in mind that if you go with the thinner metal, heat may cause it to warp if it isn’t secured properly. As far as the bed of the truck goes, your choice of thickness for the diamond plate will depend on whether or not the plating will be placed over an existing floor.
We carry the following thickness in diamond plate and it may be a good idea to go to a hot rod forum to see what other automotive enthusiasts have used for the same application. Over the years I’ve learned that listening to those who have gone before me is a great way to avoid potential grief. On several occasions I have learned that what seemed like a simple solution had unintended consequences.
Diamond Tread Plate
.063” Shiny Aluminum and Black Powder Coat
.080” Shiny Aluminum
.125” Shiny Aluminum
.250” Shiny Aluminum
Have fun with your F100, and thanks for asking Frank
Thanks Frank -
Will do!
Bob P
Good morning Frank
Have a hot rod truck, ’69 F100 that I want to do the firewall in with a mirror finish, and do the inside of the firewalls with diamond plate. Also the bed of the truck. What thickness do you recommend and also your advice on cutting for different angles etc.
Morning Bob, You’ve got a good plan in place. The key is the neutralizer. Concentrate on getting that step in your process completed well and you should be the talk of the town with a beautifully copper capped bay window!
Send me a photo when you’re done and I’ll post it online.
Frank
Hello Frank-
Just ordered 2 cans of Storm Copper Coat.
I am cleaning/polishing the copper cap on bay window.
Approx 30 sq ft.
Looking for instructions on preparing copper before applying Copper Coat.
I have used an acid from PPG to strip the black patina. Then polished with Meguirs 83.
Considering washing with baking soda to neutralize any remaining acid then acetone to remove any polish remnants. Then water. Then paint with 2 very light coats.
Any other suggestions? Really hoping for 5 years!
Thanks,
Bob P
Michigan
Chris, from looking at the link you provided, it appears that you would have to cut out a hole in your counter top, and the stainless would have to be self-supporting. Without some additional backing, I don’t think a piece of metal that wide will have the rigidity to meet the demand of pressure during typical kitchen chores. Think about adding some support under the counter and you should be happy with the 316 food grade stainless in the 12 gauge thickness.
Custom cuts are never a problem. Just give our customer service staff a call on the toll free line and they’ll get you fixed up jiffy quick! 1-888-334-2177.
Good luck with your project.
Hi Frank, well I’ve done it, the side of my build in stove top (Gas) has become a little bubbled into the Formica I’m looking at repairing by camouflage and common sense in dollar figure..the countertop is barely a year old..
I’ve found an item called 12X15 Built-In Steel Frame Kit, and would become my surrounding for your stainless..what grade and can it be custom cut to fit?
It’s cheaper than new countertop and is practical for hot pots beside the stove.
Thanks for your help
Hi Marcela, you’re in luck because the 304 Mirror Finish Stainless Steel sheet is just that: a mirror finish. It’s not quite as good as a glass mirror, but the reflective qualities are excellent. I think it would work perfectly for your project, but I would suggest you order a sample so you can see for yourself before committing to a large piece. Just log on to QuickShipMetals.com and click on the live text chat option or call the toll free number 1-888-334-2177 and they’ll get that sent out quickly.
Thanks for asking Frank
Hi Frank,
I’d like to know if the 304 Mirror Finish Stainless Sheet could be used as a mirror itself? ,
i’m trying to replicate very expensive bathroom ceiling hanging mirror, (hydrus CL 33) and i guess that using this material could turn out very nice and sleek, specially because my bathroom it’s pretty small,and the minimal thickness of the stainless steel would be fantastic for this application.
Thanks!!!,
Marcela
Al, the diamond pattern in our Decorative Stainless Steel is square (3″x3″ on the diagonal), so they are equally tall and wide.
Frank
Frank, your product # RM-BQ-024-36-48 Diamond wall lining, what size are the finished diamonds?, are they taller than they are wide?
Hi Marcia/Jeff,
Patinas are a fascinating topic and one far more complicated than can be covered in this forum, but suffice it to say there are no “simple” techniques or “easy” solutions for creating a quality patina. One of the best one’s that I like is using a torch. It will bring out the colors of blue, red, yellow, green, purple and etc. There are several home remedies on the web site to use to patina copper. One of the quickest is muratic acid. Apply it and let it set overnight, then mist it will water and you’ll get a nice green color. Another green patina finish can be created with ammonium sulfate base, ammonium chloride base and cuprous chloride/hydrochloric acid base but there are many different colors and combinations of colors that are possible with other chemicals as well. Naturally, with chemicals and environmental variables, numerous factors can be involved. Therefore patinas tend to be problematic due to a lack of adhesion to the copper surface, incidental staining of materials next to the copper and perhaps most significant, the inability to achieve a desirable color uniformity over large surfaces.
If after considering these challenges and limitations you’re still convinced you want to “go green”, here’s a handy reference of colors and the chemicals that produce them. Patina Formulas for Brass, Bronze and Copper. I would highly recommend that you use small pieces of your metal to experiment on before you tackle your project and are disappointed with the results. Undoing or changing a patina can be more challenging that creating it in the first place.
Before you open any chemicals and start mixing and spraying, make sure you have the proper safety protection for your skin and eyes, and always work in a well ventilated area. Industrial , chemical resistant rubber gloves are mandatory, and safety glasses as well. You never know when a splash will leap out of a container or when air currents will blow a chemical mist back in your face.
For molding or edge treatments, you’re in luck because QSM has a quick and easy solution for that. http://www.quickshipmetals.com/decorative-sheet-metal/decorative-copper-sheet/copper-trim-molding.html” rel=”nofollow”>Copper Molding is decorative and easy to cut and install.
Good luck with your project, and thanks for asking Frank
Hi Gary, There are many different chemicals and combinations of chemicals that will discolor copper, but none that I am aware of that you can find under your kitchen sink. A natural patina takes years to form, but we tend to want to speed things up a bit, and that’s possible with chemicals. As one might expect, the end result vary greatly with the chemicals used, the strength of the dilution, surface preparation and method of application. For example, heat will create many dramatic and varied results not possible with a cold surface.
However, whether you decide to work cold or hot metal, before you open the chemicals and start mixing and spraying, make sure you have the proper safety protection for your skin and eyes, and always work in a well ventilated area. Industrial , chemical resistant rubber gloves are mandatory, and safety glasses as well. You never know when a splash will leap out of a container or when air currents will blow a chemical mist back in your face.
The simplest option is muratic acid. Spray it on and leave it overnight and let the dew fall on it or mist it with water and you’ll get a very pleasing shade of green. Here’s another possible mixture that will produce a green patina. 1 Tablespoon of ammonium chloride (Sal ammoniac), 1 Tablespoon salt, 1 ounce ammonia and 1 quart of bottled or distilled water. Heating the water helps dissolve the chemicals more thoroughly, and you need to use a plastic container that will be only used for the patina mix. Once you’re satisfied that you have the chemicals totally dissolved, make sure the surface of your metal is clean and free of all oils and residue before spraying the patina mixture. Let the mixture dry and then repeat 3 or so more times until you get the results you looking for.
There are many different colors that are possible, and this handy reference provides the intended color and required chemicals to achieve it. Patina Formulas for
Brass, Bronze and Copper.
Good luck with your project, and thanks for asking Frank
Frank,
Is there a household product that will tarnish copper rapidly? I know sulphur will but that’s not something I have.
thanks,
Gary
Hi Frank,
We’re thinking of using copper decorative sheets as a kitchen backsplash not just the counter backsplash. While I really like shiny copper it may not look right with our ‘soft pumpkin’ wall paint, so I was wondering if you know how to patina the cooper to look more like a rusty bronze color? Is it something a homeowner can do do you recommend products? Also does QSM sell any kind of copper edge to end the sheet or cover the irregular edge?
Thanks, Marcia/Jeff
Craig, I’d recommend using a fine-blade Dremel tool. The high speed blade cuts smoother. You’ll need a steady hand or use a piece of material to guide your cut. Sawing with a fine-tooth blade will work, but you’ll need to cut it fat and do some filing to get a perfect fit.
Frank
James, sorry for the delay in responding but this one took a bit of research. This would be a good start.
Aluminum Bronze Alloy: C95500
http://www.concast.com/c95500.php
Good luck with your project
Frank
Hi Neal, That’s an interesting concept. I’ve never seen it done but I don’t know of any reason it wouldn’t work. The tree bark pattern is rough enough to enable adequate bonding of the epoxy with its surface, and the bright surface of the stainless steel should create an interesting effect. I would have some concern about using contact cement to bond the metal. I’d recommend using the Liquid Nails. It has a proven track record for bonding stainless steel.
Good luck, and send me a photo of the finished project. It should be a real eye catcher.
Frank
I am building a bar and wanted to use the tree bark stainless steel, as the top and pour 1/8 epoxy clear over top, I would use contact cement to secure the steel and have wood trim as a curb for the epoxy, any thoughts, and do you think this would work? thanks.
what 1/4″ brass alloy rod am I seeking to braze a cable clamp for holding arcair carbon electrodes—-and resisting the heat created by the arc? I am trying to make a two-carbon torch. Thanks.
What is the best method to get a clean looking miter cut in the j channel? I am making a 90 degree bend and want a clean look.
Tom, Looks like I missed this one. The aluminum diamond plate has a mirror finish. The sheets size is 48” x 120”. We can make a custom size. For a quick quote, custom cut and fast shipment, contact our customer service staff with the size, thickness and Zip Code for shipment. 1-888-334-2177.
Frank
Tom, Looks like I missed this one. The aluminum diamond plate has a mirror finish. The sheets size is 48” x 120”. We can make a custom size. For a quick quote, custom cut and fast shipment, contact our customer service staff with the size, thickness and Zip Code for shipment.
Frank
Hi Marvin, If you order the magnetic stainless steel sheet, you won’t need magnetic hooks. We don’t carry this item, but you can find them in just about any hardware store. One thing to keep in mind, like poles repel, so if you get magnetic hooks thinking you’re going to get a stronger hold you may get the opposite.
Good luck with your project, and thanks for stopping by. Frank
Hi Jerry, Yes, we can offer .125 Brass sheeting. The sheets are 24” x 96” and you can make a custom cut from this.
Good luck on your project.
Frank
I was going to order a magnetic stainless steel plate 24×48 and attach it to a bedroom wall, so my wife could hang her necklaces’.
My question is this, do you also sell magnetic hooks?
I am looking for 1/8 brass sheet material with the Greek key pattern to be used as return air grills. Does Quick Ship have access to this material?
Ajay, the best advice I can give for this project is to order a replacement from the manufacturer or buy a new ice cream maker.
If you’re set on trying it, 18 GA Stainless Steel would be a good gauge to try, but cutting and shaping it would be the big challenge. Based on my knowledge of ice cream makers, I believe you would need to machine the stainless steel in order to make it work.
Frank
I want to fix an ice cream maker dasher with stainless steel plate as on overlay. I will need to cut and mold to make the paddles. Please advice on the gauge that will be stiff enough to keep shape as a dasher but at the same time easy to mold and cut.
Also, any advice on the best way to cut it.
Thank you.
Patsy, I would recommend using the .005 copper foil. It’s soft and easy to work with, but rigid enough to hold the shape you create by embossing. It would be best to fill the back side of your work when finished, to ensure that it doesn’t get damaged on display. Plaster is the easiest filler to use. Also, if you rub a piece of wax paper lightly over the back of the copper it makes the tools slide more smoothly when embossing. Just don’t get any wax on the front of your work or it will alter the patina.
Good luck with your work!
Frank
Hi Jim, custom cuts are every day fare at Quick Ship Metals. Just give our friendly customer service department a call and they’ll take care of it right away. 1-888-334-2177
Frank, Am remodeling the kitchen and need the front dishwasher panel to be SS. Dim is 23-1/2″ x 19-3/16″ x 0.020T. Do y’all do custom cuts? If so, I would like to order. Thanks for the info. Jim
Question: I need to find a copper thickness that can be embossed, using a raised design, by adult students. They will be cutting it old scissors for a workshop I’ll be doing next month.
And if they choose to go further with their embossed copper and want to use it on the interior of their motor home do they need to fill the concave part with a filler or anything.
Hi Elaine, Since you’re mounting the copper sheeting on a solid surface, 24 gauge will be adequate. It’s easy to work with and you should be pleased with the results.
Frank
what thickness of copper sheeting would I need to cover a counter top for my bathroom sink
Hi Carey, Sorry to hear about your predicament. Unfortunately there’s not much that can be done once the scratches are in place, other than replacing the metal. You could try using a medium grade of steel wool or a good grade of rubbing compound to rub across the marred areas in a pattern similar to the original look. You might be able to work some of them out, so it’s worth a try, but more than likely you are not going to remove them all. It would be a tedious process, but what have you got to lose?
Frank
Hi Lilia, A simple backsplash can be made from 24 Ga. stainless steel. You have a couple of options with the edges. It can be hemmed or your could use the trim molding to finish the look. A 24” x 30” 24 Ga. sells for $70.26, and here’s a handy link to that page. 24 Ga. Stainless Steel
The aluminum diamond plate has a mirror finish. The sheets size is 48” x 120”. We can make a custom size and will be happy to provide a quote. Size? Thickness? Zip?
Just click the Live Text Chat icon or call our toll-free number: 1-888-334-2177.
I need a stainless steel backsplash on one side of my cooktop range. its about 30″high with a cutout on one corner for the hood. the widthh is 24″.The underneath is my wall oven cabinet.what gauge I have to use. How should the edge facing out look like,is it bend or fold in a little bit,or have a hem? Around how much it cost?Or do you have other suggestion?
Hi,
I recently purchased and installed a stainless backsplash from quickship metals, and it looks great.
Or, rather, it did look great until our cleaning lady use an abrasive pad on it.
Is there any way to remove the circular scratches she put into the grain? They are pretty light, but very obvious.
I’ve read any number of solutions online, but I’m hoping you will have a definite answer since you know the type of grain pattern used originally…
Thanks,
–Carey
Frank,
I sent you an email on 29 June, re my pigeon hole shelving with 4 sliding doors. I forgot to ask if the aluminum diamond plate is of the bright variety vs the dull looking stuff. Also noticed the largest sheet size is 36″ X 48″. The 36″ width is ok however I need four 80″ long sheets to cover 4 standard sliding doors. Can I get longer pieces?
Tom
Tom, You are going to be one organized guy when you get that project finished and all of the pigeon holes filled. The aluminum diamond plate will really set it off nicely. With hollow core doors I wouldn’t put much faith in mounting any weight with a few screws. I’m concerned that over time the weight of the metal, combined with the movement and effects of inertia would loosen the screws in that light core wood and you’d have a sheet of diamond plate crashing down. I’d recommend using .063 and gluing it on with Liquid Nails and clamping it down securely until it dries thoroughly. That would give you a clean look and a much more secure attachment. Send photos when you’re done. I’m betting it’s going to look great!
Thanks for asking Frank
Frank,
I am building wall shelving in my garage in the style of pigeon holes. I intend to hide the shelving behind 2 sets of sliding doors. I want to clad the doors with aluminum diamond plate. What thickness is adequate for this project and how should I fasten the plating to the hollow core doors. I was thinking of using stainless steel screws around each door’s perimeter however I’m not sure how or if the plating needs to be fastened inside the perimeter of screws. If so, I was thinking using a rivet gun but not sure how it will look. Any advise you can give me will be very much appreciated.
Tom
Mike, The .0216 copper flashing is designed for outside applications. You can bend it to make a fit on site. If you wish for us to make a custom piece we will be happy to offer you a quote. We just need a drawing with your specs and we can make this from .020 Copper Sheet.
Thanks, Frank
Hi Emilie, I would recommend our 24 gauge stainless for the application you are asking about. It should protect your refrigerator cabinet from what I would consider normal cooking heat. However, you specifically asked about fire protection and I would caution you that metal heats up quickly and would therefore transfer that heat to the surface it is attached to, so in the case of a hot, sustained fire, like a grease fire in a pan, I would have some concern. Under those conditions, if the grease fire continued for any length of time you could have a situation that is more widespread than the wood behind the stainless. Under normal cooking activities you should not have a problem.
Frank
Janice, that sounds like an interesting project with great potential visually and gastronomically! You should use our 2″ .020/24-gauge copper foil strips. Here’s a handy link that should get you there quickly. Good luck with your project, and let me know how it turns out. I love a good steak and might have to try that myself!
2″ 24-gauge copper
Thanks for asking Frank