Comments on: Backsplash Installation A Breeze http://quickshipmetals.com/blog/2009/11/19/backsplash-installation-a-breeze/ This blog provides useful information about Quick Ship Metal products Sat, 17 Dec 2011 10:12:55 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v= By: Frank Ross http://quickshipmetals.com/blog/2009/11/19/backsplash-installation-a-breeze/comment-page-1/#comment-7661 Frank Ross Sun, 19 Dec 2010 21:13:52 +0000 http://quickshipmetals.com/blog/?p=55#comment-7661 Hey Fanky, That's a fairly small piece of stainless steel, so if you clean the drywall well before your installation, so the tape has a good surface to adhere to there should be no problem with using masking tape for that installation. If you want to make sure the metal stays put on the bottom side, just cut a thin piece of wood and screw it to the drywall exactly where you want the stainless to set and let the metal rest on that wooden support. Tape the sides all around once you've got it glued and in place, also taping the bottom to the wood support to secure it lengthwise as well. Once the Liquid Nails has dried, remove the wood support and use some spakling paste to fill the holes where the screws were and touch up the paint. You'll never know it was there! As far as the gauge, 24 should be adequate since you're mounting it flush against the wall. If it were exposed to traffic that might cause a ding I'd say go with the thicker metal, but there shouldn't be a concern for dings behind a stove, unless you're a wild and crazy with a spatula! Good luck, and thanks for asking Frank Hey Fanky, That’s a fairly small piece of stainless steel, so if you clean the drywall well before your installation, so the tape has a good surface to adhere to there should be no problem with using masking tape for that installation. If you want to make sure the metal stays put on the bottom side, just cut a thin piece of wood and screw it to the drywall exactly where you want the stainless to set and let the metal rest on that wooden support. Tape the sides all around once you’ve got it glued and in place, also taping the bottom to the wood support to secure it lengthwise as well. Once the Liquid Nails has dried, remove the wood support and use some spakling paste to fill the holes where the screws were and touch up the paint. You’ll never know it was there!

As far as the gauge, 24 should be adequate since you’re mounting it flush against the wall. If it were exposed to traffic that might cause a ding I’d say go with the thicker metal, but there shouldn’t be a concern for dings behind a stove, unless you’re a wild and crazy with a spatula!

Good luck, and thanks for asking Frank

]]> By: Fanky http://quickshipmetals.com/blog/2009/11/19/backsplash-installation-a-breeze/comment-page-1/#comment-7556 Fanky Fri, 17 Dec 2010 23:01:19 +0000 http://quickshipmetals.com/blog/?p=55#comment-7556 I would like to buy a stainless steel backsplash and install by myself. It will be install behind the strove and attach to the drywall. But I have a question, how can I hold it under the liquid nail dry if there haven't space for using the clamp? Can I just use the painter mask tape to hold almost 24 hrs? And also, what is your suggestion for the gauge if the size of backsplash is 30" x 18", is 24 GA enough for that size or 18 GA is better? Thanks for your help. I would like to buy a stainless steel backsplash and install by myself. It will be install behind the strove and attach to the drywall. But I have a question, how can I hold it under the liquid nail dry if there haven’t space for using the clamp? Can I just use the painter mask tape to hold almost 24 hrs? And also, what is your suggestion for the gauge if the size of backsplash is 30″ x 18″, is 24 GA enough for that size or 18 GA is better? Thanks for your help.

]]> By: FrankRoss http://quickshipmetals.com/blog/2009/11/19/backsplash-installation-a-breeze/comment-page-1/#comment-4387 FrankRoss Tue, 21 Sep 2010 18:36:12 +0000 http://quickshipmetals.com/blog/?p=55#comment-4387 Morning Patrick, Sorry but we don't carry any stainless steel rod, so the only options we can offer for this application is the J Molding or the inside corner molding. The latter might serve you well. You certainly could and should use caulk, with or without the molding. Water in a kitchen setting has a way of finding the worst places to create damage and mold. The question of the molding would depend on how the two surfaces meet and if you have a caulk that will complement the two. Frank Morning Patrick, Sorry but we don’t carry any stainless steel rod, so the only options we can offer for this application is the J Molding or the inside corner molding. The latter might serve you well. You certainly could and should use caulk, with or without the molding. Water in a kitchen setting has a way of finding the worst places to create damage and mold. The question of the molding would depend on how the two surfaces meet and if you have a caulk that will complement the two.

Frank

]]> By: FrankRoss http://quickshipmetals.com/blog/2009/11/19/backsplash-installation-a-breeze/comment-page-1/#comment-4385 FrankRoss Tue, 21 Sep 2010 18:34:08 +0000 http://quickshipmetals.com/blog/?p=55#comment-4385 Morning Patrick, Sorry but we don't carry any stainless steel rod, so the only option we can offer for this application is the J Molding. You certainly could use caulk, with or without the molding. The question of the molding would depend on how the two surfaces meet and if you have a caulk that will complement the two. Frank Morning Patrick, Sorry but we don’t carry any stainless steel rod, so the only option we can offer for this application is the J Molding. You certainly could use caulk, with or without the molding. The question of the molding would depend on how the two surfaces meet and if you have a caulk that will complement the two.

Frank

]]> By: Patrick Garner http://quickshipmetals.com/blog/2009/11/19/backsplash-installation-a-breeze/comment-page-1/#comment-4259 Patrick Garner Sat, 18 Sep 2010 05:54:05 +0000 http://quickshipmetals.com/blog/?p=55#comment-4259 What are the options for the transition between the bottom edge of a stainless steel back splash and a newly installed granite counter top? The run is quite long (10 feet) but the counter top is very well leveled. I see that the copper bar molding is recommended (i.e. bar .062 thick x 1” or 2”) for copper back splash transition to counter top but there doesn't seem to be such a bar for stainless steel applications. Is it okay to transition with an unfinished edge or full hem, perhaps in combination with caulk? Or is J molding the only way to go? I'm not a big fan of the J Molding. I don't care for the appearance of J molding and, moreover, the J molding will be positioned horizontally and water spray from my kitchen sink will probably be caught by the molding. Standing water trapped in a horizontal J molding seems like it would be problematic because of mold and slime. Over time, I can imagine that the J molding would tend to collect water spots and mineral deposits more than a straight transition because of the added folds and edges. If J molding is the only decent solution, should caulk be used where the J molding comes in contact with the granite counter top? What are the options for the transition between the bottom edge of a stainless steel back splash and a newly installed granite counter top? The run is quite long (10 feet) but the counter top is very well leveled.

I see that the copper bar molding is recommended (i.e. bar .062 thick x 1” or 2”) for copper back splash transition to counter top but there doesn’t seem to be such a bar for stainless steel applications.

Is it okay to transition with an unfinished edge or full hem, perhaps in combination with caulk? Or is J molding the only way to go? I’m not a big fan of the J Molding. I don’t care for the appearance of J molding and, moreover, the J molding will be positioned horizontally and water spray from my kitchen sink will probably be caught by the molding. Standing water trapped in a horizontal J molding seems like it would be problematic because of mold and slime. Over time, I can imagine that the J molding would tend to collect water spots and mineral deposits more than a straight transition because of the added folds and edges.

If J molding is the only decent solution, should caulk be used where the J molding comes in contact with the granite counter top?

]]> By: Mathew http://quickshipmetals.com/blog/2009/11/19/backsplash-installation-a-breeze/comment-page-1/#comment-3447 Mathew Tue, 31 Aug 2010 17:02:21 +0000 http://quickshipmetals.com/blog/?p=55#comment-3447 I received my back splash's and refrigerator door inserts and every thing was perfect. The size's were exact to my order. Job well done! I highly recommend you for quality and service. Thank You all for your friendliness, diligence and expedience in service. Mathew in So Cal. I received my back splash’s and refrigerator door inserts and every thing was perfect. The size’s were exact to my order. Job well done! I highly recommend you for quality and service. Thank You all for your friendliness, diligence and expedience in service.

Mathew in So Cal.

]]> By: FrankRoss http://quickshipmetals.com/blog/2009/11/19/backsplash-installation-a-breeze/comment-page-1/#comment-1781 FrankRoss Wed, 28 Jul 2010 22:22:51 +0000 http://quickshipmetals.com/blog/?p=55#comment-1781 Sandra, you are correct; Liquid Nails is the best option for attaching copper sheeting to drywall, but you don't want to use copper tape for the edge treatment. It would not look good, and in the long run not handle the wear and tear typically experienced with edges. We offer several options for edge molding that will give you a more professional look to your project. Here's a handy link that will take you to the page that features those products. <a href="http://www.quickshipmetals.com/decorative-sheet-metal/decorative-copper-sheet/copper-trim-molding.html" rel="nofollow">Copper Trim Molding</a> Thanks for asking Frank Sandra, you are correct; Liquid Nails is the best option for attaching copper sheeting to drywall, but you don’t want to use copper tape for the edge treatment. It would not look good, and in the long run not handle the wear and tear typically experienced with edges. We offer several options for edge molding that will give you a more professional look to your project. Here’s a handy link that will take you to the page that features those products.
Copper Trim Molding
Thanks for asking Frank

]]> By: Sandra Blackburn http://quickshipmetals.com/blog/2009/11/19/backsplash-installation-a-breeze/comment-page-1/#comment-1736 Sandra Blackburn Tue, 27 Jul 2010 14:59:21 +0000 http://quickshipmetals.com/blog/?p=55#comment-1736 We're doing a copper backsplash, and have the copper sheeting. Sounds like Liquid Nails to the drywall is the way to go for adhering to the wall. But, we need a trim to help transition from kitchen to dining room, and I am wondering if either the copper foil tape or copper flashing might suit. I'm also thinking that a strip of either tape or flashing would enhance the look of the seams where the copper sheeting comes together. Do you think the thickest of your foil tapes would hold up in these applications? We’re doing a copper backsplash, and have the copper sheeting. Sounds like Liquid Nails to the drywall is the way to go for adhering to the wall.
But, we need a trim to help transition from kitchen to dining room, and I am wondering if either the copper foil tape or copper flashing might suit. I’m also thinking that a strip of either tape or flashing would enhance the look of the seams where the copper sheeting comes together. Do you think the thickest of your foil tapes would hold up in these applications?

]]> By: FrankRoss http://quickshipmetals.com/blog/2009/11/19/backsplash-installation-a-breeze/comment-page-1/#comment-1028 FrankRoss Mon, 12 Jul 2010 12:19:44 +0000 http://quickshipmetals.com/blog/?p=55#comment-1028 Art, That's one of those double barrel questions. With the variety of adhesive products available today, you can mount just about any object on any surface. That said, the other issue would be is it a good idea? There are two issues that would cause me to consider the options carefully. The first challenge is how are you going to deal with the transition from tile to wallboard, and I ask that assuming that the tile must be raised at least a little bit. The second issue would be the slick surface of the tile, which is not going to allow a really good bond across the entire area. While the Liquid Nails would bond to the grout areas, that's not much surface to hang your hat on. You might be able to use a heavy grade of sandpaper and rough them up enough to get a good bond. There's only one way to find out and the risk would be having a beautiful backsplash that comes unglued in places, making its appearance less than desirable. I'm guessing that you want to avoid the mess of removing the tile, but taking the easy route is not always the easiest in the long run. Sometimes you have to bite the bullet! Good luck with your project, whichever way you decide to go. Frank Art, That’s one of those double barrel questions. With the variety of adhesive products available today, you can mount just about any object on any surface. That said, the other issue would be is it a good idea? There are two issues that would cause me to consider the options carefully. The first challenge is how are you going to deal with the transition from tile to wallboard, and I ask that assuming that the tile must be raised at least a little bit. The second issue would be the slick surface of the tile, which is not going to allow a really good bond across the entire area. While the Liquid Nails would bond to the grout areas, that’s not much surface to hang your hat on. You might be able to use a heavy grade of sandpaper and rough them up enough to get a good bond. There’s only one way to find out and the risk would be having a beautiful backsplash that comes unglued in places, making its appearance less than desirable.

I’m guessing that you want to avoid the mess of removing the tile, but taking the easy route is not always the easiest in the long run. Sometimes you have to bite the bullet! Good luck with your project, whichever way you decide to go.

Frank

]]> By: art http://quickshipmetals.com/blog/2009/11/19/backsplash-installation-a-breeze/comment-page-1/#comment-935 art Sat, 10 Jul 2010 14:43:04 +0000 http://quickshipmetals.com/blog/?p=55#comment-935 Can you install stainless backslpash over existing ceramic tile? Can you install stainless backslpash over existing ceramic tile?

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